Hydroseeding Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Water, seed, fertilizer, and mulch. A tackifer may also be added to help hold materials if the area to be sprayed is on a hillside or in rainy conditions.

Turf grasses such as bluegrass, rye grass, fescue, centipede, bermuda, bahia, pasture mixes, timothy, millet, clover, crown vetch, native grasses, and wildflower mixes. Almost any type of turf seed can be hydroseeded.

For a new site, preaparation is the same as for any other seeding method. The prepared area should be smooth and rock free with a slightly loose soil condition that is of the desired grade and contour.

After hydroseeding, there are a few days of care required, specifically watering. The area should be watered regularly, two times a day in warm weather. By keeping the area moist, seed germination will be maximized. Mowing can begin once the new lawn is at least 3” tall in most areas. Mowing will stimulate growth and increase thickness. About one month after seeding is done, fertilize the area using a high nitrogen fertilizer.

• Hydroseeded areas come up faster. Many customers see green grass in 3 to 5 days.
• Hydroseeded areas have an attractive green appearance that has a more visually desirable look than areas that have been dry seeded and covered with straw mulch.
• During hydroseeding, no weed seed is used, unlike start that is often used as a protective cover for newly seeded areas.
• Customer defined seed preference.

• Sod is expensive, generally costing 3 to 5 times more than the hydroseeding process.
• New seedlings are grown on your soil. Oftentimes, sod has a problem with the type of soil it was grown on, not having sufficient compatibility with the soil it is planted on.
• With sod, the roots are chopped off, resulting in a less healthy plant.